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ermida sao joaozinho campo maior portugal travel alentejo hermitage 17th century blue sky august summer season whitewashed baroque style curvilinear gable bell bay window vertical clean neat skyscape moon dusk sunset twilight outdoors cloudscape golden hour freshly painted resplendent portalegre disctrict heritage chapel religious architecture diocese evora elvas road pilgrimage catholic church procession june eve juan festival legendary plague 14th outskirts gonasect alo rodrigues fig tree saint john baptist devotion place patron miracle portugal typical south